I was all set to go to the Grand Canyon (again) to watch the sunrise, but couldn’t convince Rob. Instead I looked out the hotel window as the sky changed from dark to pink, then orange and yellow. The breakfast room was crowded this morning, filled with weekenders using Flagstaff as their base to explore the canyon. Probably a good thing we didn’t go.

Riordan Mansion, Flagstaff, AZ

Riordan Mansion, Flagstaff, AZ

Instead, we set off for Riordan Mansion, near the North Arizona University. It wasn’t open yet, so we changed course for Walnut Canyon. Bridget guided us through a really posh area of town that straddles a golf and country club. Once through the new suburb, we ended up on a dirt road for about 5 km.

Walnut Canyon isn’t at all like the Grand Canyon in scale. But it does have cliff dwellings that you can get inside. Archeologists estimate that the cliff dwelling construction started in 1100. It was the Sinagua people who had settled in the area, and once Sunset Crter was created after several volcanic eruptions, the Sinagua moved to the cliffs.

Rob in cliff dwelling @ Walnut Canyon, AZ

Rob in cliff dwelling @ Walnut Canyon, AZ

It’s actually pretty cool how they brough water up from the creek to plant crops such as corn, squash and beans. They took advantage of the light available in different parts of the canyon, and burrowed dwellings into the cliff where rock was softer. They then used rocks in the area to construct walls, leaving chimney holes to allow smoke to escape. Inside one of the dwellings you could see the years of soot build up on the ceiling.

The only down side was that a rock slide had closed part of the trail. And then there was the climbing up 240 stairs at elevation. Not an issue for my legs, but the air is definitely thinner at 6500 ft.

We then headed back to Flagstaff to try Riordan Mansion again. It’s an Arts and Crafts bungalow, and since we live in one (different style), we were hoping to have a poke around. However, the only way in is through a guided tour, and the next one was 25 minutes away. They couldn’t really tell us what we would see inside, and handed us the pamphlet we already had, which really didn’t say much. So instead we left for Sedona, via Oak Canyon.

It's not the Grand Canyon, but you can drive through Oak Canyon

It

At the beginning of Oak Canyon there is a scenic lookout. At the far end of the parking lot, before you get to the views, Indians have set up craft stalls like they do each day. I wandered through the stalls, and there was much I would have like to buy, but I think I have enough now. One man was telling stories and wishing travelers well on their journeys. Other older Indian ladies were making jewelry behind the tables, as proof that you were buying directly from the artist. The unfortunate part is that the scenic view doesn’t really prepare you for what is ahead. Unlike the Grand Canyon, you actually drive through Oak Canyon to get to Sedona. The only scenic part of the view is that you can see the switchbacks for the road ahead, and some of the changes in rock formation based on height.

Many magnificent views can be found along this road. The challenge is finding a place to park to see them. The road is very narrow and twisting, and parking is only allowed in Red Rock State Park spots. You need to pay $5 per day to park in these, but many were already full. So when saw the sign for Slide Rock Park, we took a gamble and turned off the highway.

Sarah @ Slide Rock Park, AZ

Sarah @ Slide Rock Park, AZ

What an unexpected surprise. The slide is an 80 foot natural water slide that people can swim down. The slide is worn in the red rocks famous in the area and winds through a cool creek bed. You can also hike or picnic. The area includes Pendley Homestead house, the original apple orchards planted in the early 1900s, an apple packing barn and various farming instruments that were used over time. We had fun climbing over rocks to see how far up the creek we could go (without a paddle!) Then we hiked along the cliff path for a while before returning to the car.

Sedona is the town of the red rocks. Many early movies, especially Westerns, were filmed in the area. There are no tall buildings in Sedona, just lots of tall red rocks surrounding it and butting up in the middle of it, including one for the town’s airport. We walked around the shops, but it was really touristy. Lots of day trippers, and hotel operators flogging $50 rooms.

Sedona red rocks

Sedona red rocks

Once the afternoon started to wind down, we set off for the airport, which is supposed to be the best place to see the rocks at sunset. What a gorgeous view. If only there hadn’t been hundreds of other people crammed into the small lookout. While we were waiting for the sun to set, I decided to walk back down the road to get a better picture of one of the rocks (minus the telephone lines). The road was very narrow, with a guardrail on one side and a small shoulder on the other. I didn’t want to walk down with traffic at my back so I decided to walk facing traffic with the guard rail right up to the road. Each time I saw a car, I would jump over the guard rail. I was wearing my slip on sandals and the last time I jumped it I whacked my foot. Cursing, I took my picture then walked up the hill. Looking down I saw blood and thought there goes hiking. It was right on the part that gets the most pressing when wearing my hiking boots.

We headed back to Flagstaff for supper tonight, this time at the Flagstaff brew pub. Not the same as last night’s meal. Our waitress thought Rob was Irish (confused the Canadian “about” with the Irish one).  We discovered she was originally from Syracuse and had actually heard of Ottawa. When we ordered our burgers, she asked how we wanted them. I replied, “cooked?” We settled on medium well, but I’m hoping that wasn’t a mistake. There was still pink in them. Oh well, hopefully all the garlic I had on mine will kill any E. coli.

Tomorrow we’re heading to Redondo Beach in Los Angeles. It will be a long drive, but we’ll have two nights and one day to explore Santa Monica and Venice Beach before holidays come to an end (sigh). That’s always the worse part.

Gotta get some sleep and pack. Will write from LA.